Experiences of British Chinese chefs brought to life in new exhibition

Taste of Memory festival explores stories of food and migration

A new exhibition sees the culmination of a year-long project by Middlesex University academic Dr Rui Su to highlight the experiences of 19 British Chinese chefs and the influence of their food on the culinary landscape in this country.

The Taste of Memory exhibition and festival explores the collective memories of three generations of chefs of Chinese heritage and gives visitors a fascinating insight into their stories of setting up restaurants while struggling, adapting and integrating into British society.

The interactive exhibition is the culmination of a project by Dr Su, Senior Lecturer in Tourism at Middlesex University, who aimed to show the transformative influence of regional and Chinese food on today’s British culinary landscape, as well as the personal experiences of Chinese migrants to the UK. The British Academy provided funding for the project which saw Dr Su work with The London Archives, Ming-Ai (London) Institute, a charitable educational organisation, and the University of Nottingham.

Visitors to the event at the London Archives are able to create their own memories by tasting Chinese food and hearing the chefs’ stories. There are displays of traditional Chinese recipes while a series of hands-on activities will allow visitors to immerse their senses, sample different dishes and learn the secrets behind preparing them.

Prints, photos, maps and menus showcasing the Chinese community and their restaurants in London are available, while visitors are able to navigate the personal narratives of three generations of chefs and gain insights into their collective memories with a number of videos being shown during the festival. In particular, the chefs describe the challenges they faced when setting up their businesses in the UK.

The Festival’s launch was attended by academics and students from Middlesex University, and representatives from the organisations that Dr Su worked with on her project.

Dr Su said: “Taste of Memory is not just a reflection on the Chinese heritage of these chefs but also of how food, migration and a different culture contribute to our society."

"We hope this exhibition will give visitors an understanding of the British Chinese community, and their transgenerational memories of living, coping, and integrating in London and beyond.”

Dr Rui Su, Senior Lecturer in Tourism, Middlesex University

Liz Hutchinson, Director of Communications and Marketing at The British Academy, said: “We are very proud to have funded this fantastic project. It's an incredibly imaginative example of how to engage and be truly participatory with the public and with communities in doing research. I think this research really shows the value of the humanities and social sciences in helping us to understand people, societies and culture, in the past, present and future."

The chefs’ stories include memories of celebrity chef Ken Lo, who became the foremost expert in Britain on Chinese food, while Andrew Wong, chef-patron of two-Michelin-star restaurant A. Wong in London, talks about his experiences as a British Chinese chef, bringing together two cultures, and the importance of holding onto Chinese customs and rituals. His father was one of the UK settlers from Hong Kong in the 1950s and founded The Good Earth group of restaurants in the 1970s.

Zhao Yan, master chef, partner of Panda’s Kitchen, reveals the challenges of fitting into a different community away from family and friends, while other chefs describe the long hours of working in restaurants that they had built up from scratch.

Xiaofeng Wu, Executive Chef at The Good Earth restaurant, reflects on the importance of expertly specialising in a few dishes rather than producing a broad menu. “Every chef should focus on their own speciality and do it well,” he advised.

Symeon Ververidis, Senior Engagement and Learning Officer from The London Archives, said: “This event, which has involved working with Middlesex, Ming-Ai, Nottingham and other partners, has aimed to present positively all the communities, whoever is a Londoner, and positively all the things that has made London a home for them.”

The free exhibition runs until 14 November and tickets are available to book.

Find out more about the Taste of Memory project or watch the presentation video.